Protein is a big business these days, and not just in your diet. The hair care market has embraced protein-based treatments. But many on social media are warning that the "protein overload" from these products could increase the risk of hair damage.
TikTok users and hair experts alike have been engaged in a heated debate about whether overusing protein-rich products will make your hair brittle.
"The more of that hard layer of protein that builds up on the hair shaft, the more brittle the hair becomes," said TikTok user and hairstylist Zach Mesquite in a video. "There's all this hype surrounding these products... the stuff that tells you 'this will fix your hair' actually makes it worse."
But others argue that protein overload isn't a cause for concern, and some even consider it a myth.
"Most proteins don't penetrate deeply into the hair," TikTok user Sarina Akarim told her followers in a video from last year. When people experience excess protein, it's likely due to the product or formula itself. What's probably happening is that the products don't have a good balance of moisturizing agents.
Protein in Hair Treatments
Proteins are often found in hair treatments—such as shampoos, conditioners, and masks—that promise to repair damaged hair.
Keratin is one such protein that frequently appears in these types of treatments, along with collagen and a variety of amino acid blends. The cost varies considerably—you can get keratin treatments at a salon or buy a protein-rich conditioner from a drugstore.
The idea behind these products is that, since hair is made of protein, adding more of it to a topical treatment can help repair any brittle or damaged strands.
"Using products with added protein can help strengthen hair and protect the outer layer by filling in the breakage gaps in the hair shaft," board-certified dermatologist Dr. Anna Chacon told Health magazine.
She explained that protein can help smooth hair strands and add volume, resulting in shinier, healthier-looking hair.
Dr. Ross Kopelman, a hair restoration surgeon in New York, added that protein acts as a scaffold for hair. Without it, hair can become weak and brittle.
Although clinical research on this topic is limited, limpness and roughness are common signs of protein deficiency in hair.
Is it possible to overuse protein treatments?
While conditioners, masks, and other hair products containing protein are designed to repair damaged hair, it is possible to overdo it with protein, hence the term “protein overload” on TikTok.
Roger Azadjanian, a salon owner and hairstylist in North Carolina, told Health magazine, “When you overdo the protein, hair can become rough, dry, and brittle. Hair loses its elasticity and vitality, and that’s when breakage occurs.”
Azadjanian and Kopelman explained that the problem lies in a lack of moisture. “When you keep adding protein without balancing it with moisture, hair can become brittle, like straw, and more prone to breakage,” said Kopelman.
He added that too much protein can be a particularly serious problem for people with low-porosity hair, which doesn’t absorb moisture easily.
If your hair is damaged, you’ll need protein-based products to give it more strength and also moisturize it to boost its elasticity, Azadjanian added.
However, it’s easy to see why people keep using these products, given how they’re often marketed, Kopelman said.
“Many hair products focus on protein as a solution for damage, so people feel the need to keep adding more of it,” he continued.